Bagan is 193 kilometres (120 miles) south of
Mandalay and lies on the eastern bank of the Ayeyarwaddy River. Bagan
was the capital of the first myanmar empire. There are over 2000
religious edifices covering an area of some 40 sq.km (16 sq.miles) It
is one of the richest archieological sites in the world. In every
direction, the ruins are awesome, huge and glorious temples, small
and graceful pagodas standing alone in fields. Some are with
historical tales, while others are identified only by a number. Most
were consturcted during the 11-13 e. Buildings are either solid or
hollow, which are generally known as pagodas and temples. Temples are
large, square buildings containing arched passageways. A pagoda
customarily houses some relic from the Buddha hair, tooth or bone. It
can be seen in an earlier, more bulbous style and in a clearly. singhalese design before it evolved into the more distinctively
Myanmar pattern. Early temples were influenced by late Pyu
architectural. These early square temples are characterised by their
perforated windows and dimily lit interiors. The smaller temple
characteristic of early Bagan is also ‘Gu’ a Pali Myanmar word for
‘cave temple’. Seventeen pentagonal monuments, conridened the
earliest known fivesided buildings in the world have been identified.
Later temples added design element to the mix to produce a truly
Myanmar design with bright and well lit interiors. Other unique
structures include the pitaka taik (Buddhist scripture library)
living quarnters. Thein (ordination) and Kyaung (monastery) buildings
served as living quanters and meditation cells for monks.
Ananda Temple (Old Bagan)
One of the finest, largest, best preserved and revered of the Bagan
temples is Ananda, completed in AD 1091. The structure of the Ananda
Temple is that of a simple corridor temple. Four large vestibules,
each opening axis surround the central super structure which itself
is inlaid with four huge niches. In the niches facing the cardinal
points are four tall Buddha measu -ring 9.5 meter (31foot) on carved
lotus pedestals. Around the central core of the pagoda
are three
other statuesque Buddhas of similar size enriched by two concentric
and lofty corridors. Lining these corridors are hundreds of tiny
images housed in niches, where 80 sandstone reliefs illustrate the
life of the Bodhisatta from birth to his enlightment. The four large
images represent the four Buddhas of the present world. Gautama the
most recent Buddha, was apparently placed on the western side to give
him a view across the Ayeyawaddy to the Tan Kyi Hill and pagoda. The
north and south facing statues are originals, but those facing east
and west are later copies. The roof above the central superstructure
consists of five successively diminishing terraces. There are some
400 terra-cotta glazed tiles illustrating the last 10 jatakas
tales. Together with those inside the temple and its base, including
the ‘exterior’, these tiles represent the largest collection of
terra-cotta tiles of any temple in Bagan.
Ananda Okkyaung
This is one of the few surviving brick monasteries from the Early
Bagan era. The interior of the building is lined with well preserved
murals from late 17e.
Shwegugyi Temple
Built by Alaung Sithu in 1311, this smaller but elegant temple is an
example of the middle period, a transition in architectural style from
the dark and cloistered to the airy and light. This brighter design was
carried out through the use of more open doorways and windows.
Thatbyinnyu Temple
The highest temple in Bagan at 60 metres (200 feet) built by Alaung
Sithu around the mid 12 century. It is a fine building, but its main
attraction is the view from its terraces. However, in order to better
preserve one of Bagan’s greatest architectural achievements since 1994,
visitors are not allowed to climb through Thatbinnyu’s inner passage to
the top terrace. Beside the temple stands a small replica known as the
‘Tally Pagoda’ which was built of one brick for every 10,000 bricks
used in the main temple.
Bu Paya
Right on the bank of the Ayeyarwaddy, this cylinderical Pyu style stupa
is said to be the oldest in Bagan, Bupaya was destroyed in the 1975
earthquake that struck Bagan, but has since been rebuilt. The
distinctively shaped bulbous stupa stands above crenellated terraces.
Nyaung U & Wetkyi-in Shwezigon Pagoda
Construction of this great golden pagoda was commenced by King
Anawratha but not completed until the reign of his son King
Kyanzittha(1089-1113). Shwezigon was built to enshrine one of the four
replicas of the Buddha’s tooth in Kandy, Sri Lanka and to mark the
northern edge of the city; the other three replicas went to Lawkananda,
a smaller stupa to the south ; to Tankyi , a stupa on the western bank
of the Ayeyawaddy, and to Tuywin Taung, a stupa on the summit of a hill
32 km to the east. Shwezigone holds a special place among Myanmar
pagodas as it was the first major monument built, following the
Country’s conversion’s to theravada Buddhism and it was the first
pagoda to have ‘Nat’ images allowed within its precinct. At the
cardinal points, are four shrines each of which houses a 4 metres high
bronze standing, Gupta- inspired Buddha cast in 1102. These Buddhas are
Bagan’s largest suruiving bronze Buddha.
Shwe San Daw Pagoda (Old Bagan)
This pagoda was believed to be the first monument built by King
Anawrahta after his conquest of Thaton and the Mons in 1057. It is also
known as Ganesha, the patron saint of the Mons, whose image once stood
at the corners of its five diminishing rectangular terraces. The steep
stairway dissects each of the terraces, and from the upper levels, a
beautiful view has become a popular sunset-viewing spot.
Lawkahteikpan Pagoda
A small but interesting middle period Gu (cave) containing beautiful
frescoes and inscription, both in Myanmar and Mon.
Shinbinthalyaung
One of the three religious structures built by King Anawratha in 1057
after his victorious return from Thaton. It houses a 18metre long
reclining Buddha.
Dhammayangyi Temple
One of the best preserved temples in Bagan, similar in plan to that of
Ananda temple but much more massive looking. It was built by King
Narathu (1167-70). The masonry is without equal at Bagan as King
Narathu oversaw the construction himself.
Bagan Museum
A new museum, it is probably the biggest building in Bagan. It has the
best collection from Bagan, including a large collection of Buddha
images, a series of exquisitely carved small dolomite amd other fine
works found in temples around Bagan.
MYINKABA AND THIRIPYITSAYA Sulamani Temple
Built by King Narapatisithu in 1181, with a prime example of later
temple style and better internal lighting. Combining the horizontal
planes of the early period with the vertical lines of the Middle, this
two Taw Win Travel 19 stored temple assembled to create a pyramid
effect. The interior face of the wall was once lined with a hundred
monastic cells, a feature unique among Bagan’s ancient monasteries. The
interior passage around the base is painted with fine frescoes from the
Konbaung period, There are traces of carher frescoes.
Mingalazedi Pagoda
Close to the river bank, Mingazedi pagoda was built in 1277 by
King Narathihapati. It was the very last of the late period monument to
be built, representing the pinnacle of Bagan’s architectural skills.
The uppermost terrace is one of the highest points now accessible to
visitors.
Gubyaukgyi Temple (Myinkaba)
Gubyaukgyi temple was built by Kanzittha’s son Rajakumar in 1113 on his
father’s death. In the early period style temple, the interior is dimly
lit by perforated windows. There are nine rows of contemporaneous
frecoes depicting the 547 jataka tales. The east facing vestibule
contains a representation of a 10 armed Bodhidattva typical of Mahayana
Buddhism. Under each painting is an account, in ancient Mon script, of
the tale it depicts.
Manuha Temple
was built by the captive King of Thaton in 1095. One huge reclining and
three seated images, seem too large for their enclosure, and their
cramped, uncomfortable positions are said to represent the stress and
lack of comfort the captive king had to endure. In the earthquake in
1975, the central roof collapsed, badly damaging the largest, seated
Buddha, which has since been repaired.
Nanpaya Temple
Said to have once been King Manuha’s residence, it later was converted
into a temple. It is built of sandstone. In the central sancturary the
four stone pillars have finely carved sandstone bas-relief figures of
four-faced Brahman holding lotus flowers.
Somingyi Monastery
One of the few brick monasteries in Bagan. A pagoda to the north and
temple to the south are also attributed to Somingyi. Most brick
monasteries in Bagan were single block Structures. Somingyi is unique
in that it features monastic cells clustered around a courtyard.
Nagayon Temple
It was built by King Kyanzittha, with a characterstic Mon style,
similar to temples in India’s Orissa region. In the interior of the
Nagayon are stone relief and also frescoes depicting the life of Buddha
and Bagan style musicians.
Abeyadana Temple Built by King Kyanzittha and named for his wife. The frescoes
on the outer walls of the corridor represent Bodhisattvas, on the
inner walls are images of Brahma, Visnu, Shiva and Indra, showing a
Mahayana influence.
MINNANTHU PAYATHONZU
This complex of three interconnected shrines date to the late 13th
century. The design is similar to Khner Buddhist ruins in Thailand. Two
of the shrines contain bodhisattva figures. The threeshrine design
hints at the Hindu trimurti of Visnu, Shiva and Brahma and also a
triumvirate associated with tantric Buddhism. This temple is of
particular interest because of its Mahayanist and tantric frescoes.
Nandamannya Temple
This small, single chambered temple has fine frescoes similar to those
at Payathonzu.
Thambula Temple
This square temple is decorated with faded frescoes and was built by
Thambula queen of King Kyansittha in 1255.
Leimyethna Temple
Built by a prime minister in 1222. This temple stands in a raised
platform with the interior decorated with frescoes. It has a fine view
of the surrounding area.
PWASAW Dhamayazika Pagoda
Built in 1196 by King Narapatisithu. This circular pagoda rises from
three receeding teraces built on a regular pentagonal plan using six
million bricks. It is probably the first regular five sided building in
the world. There are about 16 five sided pagodas and temples in Bagan
and one in Sale. Dammayazaka is the greatest and best known of the
Pentagonal monuments. Their shapes remain exceptional up to modern
times.
SALAY
Salay can easily be visited as a day trip from Bagan. It is a 106-km
trip via Kyauk Padaung, about 2.5hr drive, or via chauk.
Yoke Sone Kyaung On the otherside of the main road from Kyaukpadaung is the oldest
surviving wooden monastery known as Yoke Sone. Brick and stucco stairs
with a dragon design (naga) lead up to the hall which is supported by
170 teak pillars. Only two sides of the hall bear the original over 170
years old sculptures of 19th century court life, jataka (stories from
the Buddha’s life). Inside the hall is a collection of antique
religious objects. A lacquer Buddha image about a metre high can also
be seen in Salay.
Pakkoku
It is situated along the way by river from Bagan. The town itself has
little to offer but at PAKHANGYI, 20km northeast of PAKKOKU is a 19th
century town with old city walls, and an archeological museum. There is
also one of the oldest surviving wooden monasteries in upper Myanmar
known as PAKHANGYI with 254 teak pillars. And also PAKHAHGYI KYAUNG
with 332 teak pillars which is known as Myanmar’s largest wooden
monastery.
Mount Popa Mount Popa is about 50 km from Bagan, rising 1520metres from the
arid central plains.It is said to be the cone of an extinct volcano
last active over 250,000 years ago. Volcanic ash on the mountain’s
lopes gradually became fertile soil, producing a profusion of trees,
flowering plants and herbs. In fact, Popa is sanskrit for flower. For
the inhabitants of the surrounding area it is regarded as the home of
the gods, the Mount Olympus of Myanmar. Mount Popa is considered the
abode of Myanmar’s most powerful nats and as such is the most important
nat worship centre. It is also a major pilgrimage site. Superstition
forbids wearing red or black on the mountain area, and eating meat
especially pork. Any of these actions could offend the residing nats
who might then retaliate with a spate of ill fortune. While the
volcanic cone can be climbed by means of a path, via a winding covered
walkway, the 20 minute climb is steep and stiff. However, the view from
the top across the vast plain is the most beautiful panorama that can
be seen in central Myanmar.